Guide to essential tasks:
Use a copper-based paint with an anti-slime additive. Sail-drive legs made of aluminium should use zinc-based antifoul.
Clean with a soft brush and non-scratch pad then give a good wax & polish.
Go aloft to check the masthead mounting points are secure; holes for wiring are sealed with silicone; furling shackle is sound; tangs & stay end-fittings are good; halyard & boom lift shackles, blocks & sheaves turn easily; tangs & spreader end-fittings are sound; mast step thru-deck wires are watertight; gooseneck is sound; mast is straight, stays are tight and mast pre-bend appropriately set up.
The whole system - drum & bail, turnbuckle & lower clevis & split pins, foil sections & fasteners and the top swivel should be inspected. (Tying the bosun’s chair to the foil sections with a small loop helps avoid swinging backwards). Flush any dust & dirt from any open bearings on the drum with hot water.
Open the winches and use a solvent to dissolve the old grease. Re-grease the bearings, drums & pawls and reassemble.
Turn the wheel/wheels hard in both directions for play in the system indicating a need to tighten wires at the quadrant or weak fasteners in a torque tube installation, especially where the tubes change direction. Check: Sheaves for wire (or mounting brackets for tubes) where failures can occur; Cast quardrant for cracks; Rudder key aligning the quardrant; Autopilot attachment to its rudder post and key; Rock the rudder sideways (if out of the water) to test for play in the bearings or cracks in the mounting.
Ensure seacock valves turn easily and are free from corrosion or electrolysis. Check hoses are in good condition, secured with two stainless steel clamps and that wooden/rubber bungs are handy.
Change oil, oil filter & fuel filters and drain off any water in the fuel filter housing. Check raw water impeller for brittleness or signs of fracture around the base of each fin; also the raw water anti-syphon loop. Ensure the drive belts are free from brittleness, hard spots or need for tightening. Zincs anodes - are usually in the heat exchanger, back of exhaust manifold or elsewhere including prop shaft. Check the prop shaft attachment to the transmission for wear. Stern gland leakage should be marginal and only when the shaft is turning - controlled by the stuffing box packing. Rock the shaft & P-strut (if out of the water) for play in the cutlass bearing or attachment problems. Replace worn anodes on the shaft and propeller. Inspect the rubber gasket on sail-drives for leaks or wear.
Ensure wet battery cells are topped up with de-ionised water. Keep them in the top third of amp-hour cycle after relaunch to refresh the discharge/recharge activity.
Flush the empty domestic tanks with a couple of five gallon buckets of mild bleach solution, pumping it through the system one faucet at a time before flushing and filling with fresh water.